A Welsh Weekend Escape to Three Cliffs Bay in Our New Campervan

Hitting the Road in Humphrey for the First Time

There’s a particular kind of excitement that bubbles up the day before a trip in the van. That familiar ritual of packing, the final checks, and the anticipation of open roads and new landscapes. This time, however, there was an extra layer of novelty – this would be the first proper adventure in the new Van, the Autotrail Expedition 66 which we had picked up just a few days earlier.

For 4 years Amberly our trusty Ford Nugget was our home on wheels, a compact and nimble companion that felt more like an oversized car than a motorhome. We had some fantastic adventures, weaving through narrow European streets and tucking into tight coastal spots. But, as the trips got longer and the desire for a little more space and comfort grew, the time felt right for a change.

Enter Humphrey, the Autotrail Expedition 66. At a shade under 6 metres (5.99m), it’s a significant step up in length from the Nuggets 4.97m. 1m might not sound like a huge difference on paper, but believe me, you feel every extra centimetre when you’re negotiating tight lanes or inching past parked cars for the first time.

Setting off from Hampshire felt a little different this time. The perspective from the driver’s seat is higher, the bonnet vanishes quicker, and there’s a definite sense of being in a larger vehicle. The initial miles on the motorway were straightforward enough. The Expedition cruises comfortably, and the extra weight provides a solid, reassuring ride. It felt less susceptible to the buffeting from passing lorries than the smaller Nugget.

The sat-nav was set for the Gower Peninsula, a route that involved a good stretch of motorway cruising before transitioning onto slightly smaller A-roads and eventually the narrower lanes of the Welsh countryside. This is where the extra length required a bit more concentration. Corners needed a wider arc, and overtaking became a more considered manoeuvre. There were a few moments that required a sharp intake of breath, but the Expedition handled it well, proving surprisingly manoeuvrable for its size.

Pulling into Three Cliffs Campsite after a few hours on the road felt like a minor triumph. Navigating the campsite itself, finding the pitch, and getting setup was another little test, but we managed it without incident.

The drive was a valuable first lesson in the nuances of travelling in a larger motorhome. It requires a slightly different approach, a touch more planning, and a greater awareness of the space you occupy on the road. But the rewards are already evident – the extra living space, the larger bed, and the increased capacity for carrying gear (important for a photographer!).

Swapping the familiar confines of the Nugget for the roomier Expedition is a new chapter in the van life adventure. The drive to Three Cliffs was the perfect initiation, a journey that highlighted both the challenges and the exciting potential of this new, longer home on wheels. We are already looking forward to the many miles and memories we’ll make in the Expedition 66.

A Weekend Escape to Three Cliffs Bay in a new Van

There are some views that just stick with you, the kind that make the packing, the driving, and the inevitable campsite levelling faff all completely worth it. Last weekend, Louise and I trundled over the border into Wales for a quick escape, setting our compass for the Gower Peninsula and the rather legendary Three Cliffs Campsite.

I’ve long admired photos of Three Cliffs Bay – that iconic vista of the three limestone cliffs marching out to sea, the sandy expanse, and the meandering river. As someone who loves nothing more than exploring the UK and Europe in our motorhome, and with a growing ambition to capture these landscapes through my lens, it felt like a pilgrimage that was long overdue.

The campsite itself is perched in a prime position, offering those jaw-dropping views right from your pitch if you’re lucky enough for cliff edge pitch. Arriving on a Friday afternoon, the welcome was warm, and settling the van in was straightforward, nicely nesseled behind a hill obscuring the sea view but giving us views of the countryside. We overheard a few people with cliff top pitches commenting on sleepless nights due to the high winds, but we were protected from the worst of it by the small hill. The facilities were spotlessly clean, shop well stocked, a couple of pizza ovens and good looking cafe ready to feed you if needed – always a bonus in a campsite!

With the van set up after a bit of head scratching as how to everything turned on, it was time to explore. A short stroll from the campsite leads you down fairly steeply towards the bay. The path winds its way through coastal scenery, with tantalising glimpses of the sand and sea below. And then you see it properly – the full sweep of Three Cliffs Bay laid out before you. It’s genuinely breathtaking.

For any photographer, this place is a goldmine. The changing light on the cliffs, the patterns in the sand left by the tide, and the drama of the coastline offer endless opportunities. I spent a good few hours simply wandering, camera in hand, trying to do justice to the scene.

One morning we made a flask of coffee and took a short stroll down the Bridle path to buy some amazing pastries from the Little Valley Bakerey in the nearby village of Parkmill (Home of the Gower Heritage Centre and Shedhead Cider!), then headed back to the coast following the meandering river for a memorable breakfast on the golden sands.

The area surrounding Three Cliffs is absolutely breathtaking, offering sweeping panoramic views that stretch as far as the eye can see in every direction. As the day winds down, evenings are best spent soaking in the serene tranquility of the campsite, accompanied by the gentle sound of waves crashing in the distance. It’s the perfect time to unwind, savor the moment, and, of course, indulge in some delicious cooking paired with a refreshing Shed Head Cider!

Coastal Strides and a Culinary Reward: Walking to Oxwich Bay

One of the best things about staying at Three Cliffs Campsite is the immediate access to the Wales Coast Path. Stepping out of the van with a backpack, camera, and a healthy dose of anticipation, Sundays plan was simple: follow the path east to Oxwich Bay, with the promise of lunch at the Oxwich Bay Hotel as a very welcome reward. Ideally, we would have loved to experience the Beach House Oxwich for lunch, but it was closed on the days we could do the walk.

The initial part of the walk from the campsite offers those already-treasured views back over Three Cliffs Bay. The path here is well-trodden, winding its way up along the clifftop. The air was fresh, carrying the faint scent of salt and coconut gorse. Looking back, you see the distinctive three peaks shrinking into the distance, the patterns of the sand and the flow of the river becoming more defined from this elevated perspective – a different kind of photo opportunity compared to being down on the beach.

As you move away from Three Cliffs, the landscape subtly shifts. The dramatic cliffs give way to a mix of coastal woodland and open heathland. The path meanders, with occasional climbs and descents that get the legs working but are more than compensated for by the changing scenery. There were moments where the path opened up, revealing wide vistas of the sparkling sea, the horizon a hazy line between blue and paler blue.

This stretch of the coastal path is a real joy for the senses. The sounds of the waves crashing on hidden coves and beach below, the calls of seabirds, and the rustling of leaves (Watch for Adders!) in the coastal breeze create a natural soundtrack. Visually, there’s the intricate detail of the wildflowers clinging to the clifftops, the texture of the path itself, and the ever-present, ever-changing marine palette. For a photographer, it’s a constant exercise in deciding what to focus on – the grand landscape or the smaller, intimate details.

Approaching Oxwich Bay, and the landscape opens up dramatically as you walk the paths or dunes of Oxwich Nature Reserve. Gone are the intimate coves; instead, a vast sweep of golden sand stretches out before you, backed by dunes and trees that fringe the bay. The character of the coastline changes completely. Oxwich Bay is much more open and expansive than Three Cliffs, a popular spot for watersports and beachgoers.

There’s something incredibly satisfying about earning your lunch with a good coastal walk.And there, nestled just at the end of the beach, was our destination: the Oxwich Bay Hotel. Arriving on foot, slightly windswept but exhilarated, felt like a proper arrival. Stepping into the hotel was a welcome transition from the elements. Lunch in the garden was everything we’d hoped for – delicious food. There’s something incredibly satisfying about earning your lunch with a good coastal walk.

The walk back to Three Cliffs Campsite in the afternoon was equally enjoyable, the tide was out so we took the more direct route along the sands before climbing when we could walk no further, it all offering new perspectives in the afternoon light. This coastal stretch is a real highlight of the Gower, offering stunning views and varied landscapes that make for a perfect day out from the comfort of your motorhome base. Highly recommended!

Moonlight over Three Cliffs: An Astrophotography Attempt

As a photographer who loves to capture landscapes, extending that to the night sky feels like a natural progression. And with Three Cliffs Bay being such a visually dramatic location, I couldn’t resist the idea of trying a spot of astrophotography during my weekend visit. The plan was to head out after dark, using the close by vantage point overlooking the bay, and hopefully capture the Milky Way stretching above those iconic cliffs.

Armed with my camera, tripod, and a healthy dose of optimism, I ventured out of the van as the last vestiges of twilight faded. The air had a different feel to it now, cooler and stiller. Making my way towards the clifftop overlooking the bay, the familiar daytime shapes of the landscape were transformed into dramatic silhouettes against the deepening sky and a Golden Sunset.

However, as I set up, it became immediately clear that the night had a different photographic agenda for me. Looking up, the stars that I’d hoped to capture in their full glory were somewhat… shy. And the reason was blindingly obvious – a magnificent, almost impossibly bright full moon hung in the sky, casting a powerful, silvery light across the bay.

Now, a full moon over Three Cliffs Bay is a stunning sight in itself. The moonlight illuminated the sand, the incoming tide, and the faces of the cliffs, creating a dramatic and beautiful scene. It was incredibly atmospheric, peaceful, and utterly captivating. The landscape, so familiar in daylight, took on a new, ethereal quality under the moon’s gaze.

But for astrophotography, a full moon is often the nemesis of faint starlight. Its brightness dominates the night sky, washing out all but the most prominent stars. So, while the view was undeniably spectacular, the chances of capturing a detailed shot of the Milky Way were rapidly diminishing with every passing minute as the moon climbed higher.

Initial disappointment quickly gave way to acceptance and a shift in photographic focus. If the stars weren’t going to cooperate, the moonlit landscape certainly was. I spent my time instead capturing the bay bathed in that intense lunar glow. The longer exposures needed to gather enough moonlight created a smooth, almost painterly effect on the water, and the shadows cast by the cliffs were deep and dramatic.

It wasn’t the astrophotography I had planned, but it was astrophotography nonetheless – capturing the night sky’s most dominant feature and its impact on the landscape below. It was a valuable reminder that while it’s good to have a plan, nature often has its own ideas, and being adaptable can lead to equally, if not more, compelling images.

So, while the cosmic dust lanes of the Milky Way remained largely hidden, the memory of that moonlit evening overlooking Three Cliffs Bay, the silver light on the water, and the quietude of the night and Louise staring up to the sky, lit by moonlight is a vivid and cherished one. And the stars will still be there, waiting for another, moonless, night.

Three Cliffs Campsite is more than just a place to park your Van; it’s a gateway to one of the most beautiful stretches of coastline in Wales. Whether you’re a seasoned campervan enthusiast, a keen photographer, or simply looking for a stunning spot to unwind by the sea, we can highly recommend adding it to your list.

Sometimes, you just need to chase a view. And the view at Three Cliffs Bay? It’s one you won’t forget in a hurry.